The Nocturnalist

Farewell Prague!

The nighttime view of Prague from Letna Park

As one of the final goodbye's some of my roommates and I decided to go to Letna park to look at the gorgeous Prague night skyline yesterday night.The Vltava river makes the city shine through it's reflection and the cool rainy night was a fresh way to say goodbye before heading to 100 degree weather in Texas. After being here for a month I had taken for granted how beautiful and different it was from home and I feel like these last few days I have been trying to appreciate everything a little bit more. Especially the views, as everywhere you turn here you see breathtaking sites. Prague is truly a beautiful city, and the springtime weather here made it that much more enjoyable. With this experience I not only learned how to be a better photographer, but also a better journalist, and I have made lasting friendships. It is always hard to say goodbye but overall I am happy that I was lucky enough to have this experience of learning and encountering a new place. I definitely want to come to Europe again, and would someday like to visit Prague again.

Weekend Miser

Medieval Castle Adventure: Karlstein

A man gets into character at the castle

At this point of the trip I thought I would be tired of castles after going to several and hearing about even more, however I still wanted to visit the Karlstein Castle after hearing how beautiful it was from my other classmates. Me and my roommates also wanted to get out of Prague since we have been here for nearly a month, and have seen pretty much all there is to see here (although it never gets old). Karlstein is a town about 45 minutes away from Prague and is easily accessible by train. We bought our tickets for 60 crowns each roundtrip, about 3 dollars, and took the 1 pm tram. Upon arriving we were sadly greeted with cold weather and rain, but that didn't ruin the day trip. The castle was really big and from far away it looked like something out of a storybook. We toured the inside and learned about Charles IV, the second king of Bohemia, who is an important historical figure of Prague. He made Prague an imperial capital and many places are named after him such as Charles University and Charles Bridge. The castle was very medieval and less decorated than the castles we had been to before. The town itself was very touristy and there were many souvenir shops along the way, and some unique little shops. It was a cute little town to complement the huge beautiful castle.

A shop sells cute colorful items

Morning Glory

One More Cup of Coffee

A cup of coffee beans inside of a coffee shop

Reading the course materials for this class I saw that Czechs regularly drink tea or coffee for breakfast, but when I came here, besides being disappointed with Czech cuisine, I was disappointed with it’s coffee. Back home, I’m used to drinking a big black cup of coffee every morning, and without it I’m just not the same person in the morning. So when I first went to a coffee shop here I was little upset that there was no such thing as “regular” coffee, only espresso, lattes and mochas were on the menu. Closer in the center of the city there are a few Starbucks, which seems like the only place where I can get an American coffee, but near my apartment there is a place called Café Fresh, and the people who work there don’t speak English so I wouldn’t even know how to order a black coffee. I’ve gotten accustomed to their foamy lattes just because there’s nothing I can do about it. I miss being able to grab a coffee on the go and one of the things I am excited about when I go home is being able to have my coffee. I think the Czech Republic is more into their beer than their coffee, and here bars and pubs are more of the Czech style.

Angels in the Architecture

Cubism for Lunch

Figuring out what to order

Prague is full of neat restaurants, cafes, and bars that each have something unique about them like The Iron Curtain, a bar full of paraphernalia from the Communist area, or the Grand Orient Café, which is a café inside a revolutionary cubist building and where I had lunch. Traditionally when I think of cubism I think of Picasso and his choppy paintings, but the cubist movement in the Czech Republic is a little different. Realizing the importance of cubism, Czech artists tried to recreate the components of this art movement in their own way through architecture, sculpture, and painting. The Grand Orient Café is located in the building named House of the Black Madonna, which was built in 1911 by Josef Gocar. Originally a Baroque building occupied this area and the rebuilding of it created a controversy because of its important location near Old Town. The building however does not conflict with the surrounding buildings due to the fact that the language of the building is Baroque architecture in Cubist form, which shows the ‘contextualization’ of Cubist architecture. The Grand Café Orient’s design, located on the first floor, is the only surviving Cubist interior in the world. It was renovated in 2005 according to original plans and today is one the prettiest cafes I have been to. I felt like I was in another era in here and with the 1920s music I felt like I was in a living museum. The food and coffee were very tasty and not at all pricey, and I would recommend it to all who visit Prague.

The Nocturnalist

Waiting for the Tram

A woman waits for her tram

Two days ago there was a transportation strike in Prague that brought trams, subways and buses to a halt. A trade union was striking against reforms of pension, healthcare, welfare, and tax systems and about 2,000 people marched in protest through Prague. However a few trams and buses were still running, making it seem like there was really nothing to worry about other than over-crowded trams. This strike made me think about how important public transportation is in Prague, compared to the US. People in America love their cars and driving huge SUVs and Texas-size trucks is a common thing. It’s different here in Prague where everyone rides public transportation because it is so easy and convenient. I really wish that public transportation was more regularly used in the United States and that it was easier to use. For example having a train from Dallas to Austin to Houston seems like it would make people’s lives a lot easier and get rid of all the traffic. Not only is public transportation ecological but also, for me, I know driving is just not fun. There’s traffic and crazy drivers, and after a hectic day, riding a bus or a train is calming and worry-free. There are certain things that Europeans know more about than the United States and public transportation is one of them.

A subway, known as a metro in the Czech Republic, arriving to the station

Wish You Were Here

At The Zoo!

A little girl plays with the goats in the petting zoo

After an exhausting long walk (according to a sign 5 km or about 3 miles) through Stromovka Park, we arrived to Praha Zoo, which according to Forbes magazine is one of the best zoos in the world. And indeed it was one of the best zoos I have been to. I have been to the Dallas Zoo and the Ft. Worth Zoo and they both lack one thing that Prague Zoo has, which is a feeling of intimacy with animals and a more natural setting throughout the whole zoo. It might be because Prague already has great enormous parks here and because the Czech people know a thing or two about appreciating nature. The Prague Zoo was founded in 1931 and it's goal was to "advance the study of zoology, protect wildlife, and educate the public." I really like this zoo because I felt that the animals here were easier to see and you could even hang out with lemurs in their habitat. One of my favorite parts was seeing how much fun children were having here. There were playgrounds here and even a small swimming pool, where many children ran amuck naked, and not to mention children love animals. I would love to bring my nephew here. I also saw many dogs here naturally, since Czech love their dogs, and it was funny to see that dogs had an entrance fee of 20 crowns (about a dollar). I really love animals and I thought this zoo did a good job at making their animals happy and healthy. Not to mention it was a good deal for such a big zoo at only 100 crowns, which is about five dollars.

A tiger resting in it's cage

Facts of Life

Shops around the Corner

Two children playing outside of their parent's small grocery store

Although our neighborhood is considered a residential area, it hardly seems so with so many shops and small businesses open along our street. On almost every corner there are small shops with “potraviny” written on it, which stands for groceries in Czech. Most of these small shops are run by Vietnamese people and I was surprised to learn that besides Czechs, Vietnamese are the second largest population in the Czech Republic, and in 2009 it was estimated that there were more than 60,000 Vietnamese people residing here.

During the Communist period, the Czech Republic invited Vietnamese immigrants as guest workers, who would return to Vietnam with skills and training. After the fall of Communism however, most Vietnamese stayed in the Czech Republic. During the 1990s and 2000s, Vietnamese people continued to migrate to the Czech Republic. The small business sector is the key economic domain of first-generation Vietnamese people, which is evident by the number of small shops open on our street run by Vietnamese people. Second generation Vietnamese are known for high levels of educational attainment and outperforming their Czech classmates. I love having the little shops open on every corner because they are convenient and in my experience, have the freshest food, especially fruit. I have yet to see a store here that is as big as Wal-mart and even the chain supermarkets are pretty small. I wish that in the States shops were smaller like they are here and easier to get to, it seems that everything here is a short walk away as opposed to always having to drive like in Texas.

Wish You Were Here

The Jewish Quarter of Prague

A Memorial With Names of Czechs Who Died in the Holocaust

Early yesterday morning we went to the Jewish Quarter in Prague, which is right next to Old Town Square, and got a tour around this area. I was excited and curious to go into the Jewish Museum, which is not one building but consists in several synagogues and the Jewish cemetery. My favorite synagogue was the Spanish synagogue because of the intricate stain glass and wallpaper. The museum was founded in 1906 by Dr. Hugo Lieben and Dr. Augustin Stein in order to preserve the synagogues during a time of urban renewal. In 1942 the Nazi’s established the Central Jewish Museum where they stored confiscated items of the Jewish people. There are several theories as to why the Nazi’s started a Jewish museum, and some people speculate that they wanted to show a museum of an exterminated race. Luckily this never happened.

I thought this tour was interesting because I like learning about other religions and cultures. Our tour guide was very interesting although I felt like some comments she said were biased, but I guess we all have our biases. I had never been to a synagogue before, so going to one was very educational for me. The architecture was somewhat similar to a Christian church but the set up of the synagogue was completely different. I was surprised to learn that during Orthodox Jewish prayer, men and women are not allowed to be in the same room. This tour helped me understand Judaism better, especially coming from a family that is Catholic, and having known little about the Jewish religion.

Facts of Life

Tourists, tourists everywhere!

A common sight on the Charles Bridge

I have to admit that before coming to this program to study abroad I hadn’t really heard much about Prague and the Czech Republic. I knew it was in Europe somewhere but I couldn’t put a face to the name. There was no Eiffel tower to think of or Mediterranean beaches to conjure up what it was. That is the reason why I am so surprised that there are so many tourists here. Near our neighborhood there are mostly locals walking about, but a few tram stops away and down to Old Town Square and Charles Bridge there are herds of camera wearing, fanny-pack carrying people. Technically I am a tourist but studying and living here for a month does not make me feel like one.

There are many benefits to having tourists come here, mainly economical, but it also promotes multiculturalism. On the other hand, tourism is not always pretty. Several young people come here solely for the beer and you can regularly see people my age beyond inebriated on the street in large groups. There are also countless souvenir shops, which sell products that have nothing to do with Prague, such as shirts that say, “They say I was in Prague, but I don’t remember.” Many locals have moved out of Prague due to the fact that there are so many people and a lot of noise. Tourists account for about 100,000 more people per day in Prague. To some, it seems that their city was taken away and now caters to foreign visitors. However tourism is inevitable and it brings in the big bucks, so the good must be accepted with the bad.

Tourists stop and take a break

Small Wonder

We're all just ordinary people

Three women enjoy their day sitting on a bench

Visiting the Hluboka Castle on the last day of our weekend excursion was amazing, and the wooden décor inside was beautiful. However it was difficult to get pictures since photography was not allowed inside. We also visited a photo museum that was in the middle of nowhere in a small town on our way to Prague. What caught my attention the most on this trip to see these two things was seeing ordinary people going about their ordinary life around these small towns. I love seeing how people interact and how they spend their days of leisure. Pictured above are three older ladies sitting on a bench outside of a store. I thought this moment was a great moment to capture since they just sat there for what was probably hours, waiting for time to pass and maybe people watching. The next picture is a man and his daughter strolling about next to a fountain. As a child I loved climbing on top of things and I just thought the juxtaposition of this little girl and a scraggly old man was a good moment to capture as well. Sometimes it’s the little things walking around the city that make the best pictures.

A man and his daughter

Weekend Miser

Strolling through Cesky Krumlov

A couple enjoys a walk around the town Cesky Krumlov

After a long day learning about beer and breweries, we arrived to Cesky Krumlov, the site of our weekend excursion. Cesky Krumlov is a small town located in the Southern Bohemian part of the Czech Repubilc, and let me tell you it is something straight out of a storybook. We arrived late in the evening and ate dinner at a great small restaurant right along the river and had a delicious meal and dessert. There were tons of tourists on the sidewalks that double as streets, so I decided it would be best to enjoy this town early in the morning when there weren’t crowds of people. I walked around before breakfast and enjoyed the scenery here that made me think I was in Hansel and Gretel due to the cobblestones and architecture of the small cottage-like buildings. Very few people were out during this time, which made everything peaceful. I saw a couple of little old ladies sitting on a bench and watching the river. I also saw a few people jogging or simply strolling like I was. It was nice to see the town before it awoke and began getting busy.

The view of the river from our hotel

Later that morning we toured the chateau which is home of a few bears residing in its moat. It was a great castle and our tour guide, who was from Florida, was very lively. My favorite parts of the tour were the views of Cesky Krumlov and getting to see the enchanting Baroque theater, which is one of only four Baroque theaters surviving and one of the most preserved. During the day there was not much to do and it was nice to be lazy and enjoy the pretty town. Later that day we went to a photo atelier that belonged to Josef Seidel. Seidel is a famous Czech photographer who documented life in the Bohemian part of the Czech Republic. Having a lot of interest in photography, it was fascinating to see the history of photography and the role it played in people's lives.

A classmate photographing an antique camera

Wish You Were Here

Brewery Tour

At the end of the tour we were treated to taste the pure unfermented beer

After visiting the Hops Museum in Zatec, Czech Republic and learning about one of the main ingredients of beer, we visited the Pilsner Urquell brewery in the city of Pilsen. This brewery is world famous because it is where the first lager originated, and even the name suggests this as Urquell means “original source.” A lager is the golden popular beer, which makes up for 90% of the beers that are sold around the world. There is a serendipitous tale to how this beer was created, as our tour guide explained as we walked through the brewery. In 1840 the Pilsen city council, tired of their unpleasing beer, threw away 36 casks of their top-fermented ale and hired Josef Groll to create a new beer. He invented bottom-fermented beer, which is cooled at 10 degrees and then stored for about 30 days at freezing point.

My favorite part of the tour of the brewery was going down to the cold cellar where they stored the beer. We got to see the huge wooden tanks they used to keep the beer stored (they now store them in stainless steel) in the freezing cave of a place, and at the end of the tour they let us sample the unfermented beer. I don’t really love the taste of beer so as someone who is not a connoisseur I can’t tell you if it was good or not. The tour was really interesting and getting to see the process of making beer, from the packaging to the heating and cooling of it, was really educational.

99 barrels of beer on the wall

Noticed

A Trip to See Modern Art

A sculpture stares down at Albert and Jules

It is hard to tell from the unsightly appearance of the building next to our apartment that it houses world-famous pieces of art including works from Picasso and the famous Czech artist Mucha. We visited the Veletržní Palace that belongs to the National Gallery in Prague last week and took a tour to learn about and see art from the 20^th and 21^st century. The museum has four floors of galleries, which has work from foreign as well as Czech artists and includes paintings, photographs, architectural sculptures and even experimental films.

A shadow reflects off a sculpture

A sculpture made of brass

Coming to this museum I realized how “weird” modern art can get (such as having a photo of a woman with animal parts strewn on her belly) which made me think about the purpose of modern art and why it is considered art. A quote from one of the artists featured in the museum Jindrich Chalupecky explains, “the art discovers reality, creates reality, reveals reality, the world we live in and us who live. Since not only theme but also sense and intent of the art is nothing but the day-to-day, horrific and famous drama of man and reality: drama of enigma facing wonder. If the modern art is notable to do that, then it will be useless.”

An experimental film

I can’t say I am a fan of all modern art but the most I can say is that it is interesting, appealing, and grabs my attention. The artists of this time have a lot to say, and as a photographer I came here and took mental notes on how they say it, and it makes me think about what stories I want to tell with my images.

The gallery space of the Veletržní Palace

Around Here

A Part of History: Lidice

The monument built for the children of Lidice

Imagine that one day you are taken from the comforts of your home in your small quiet village when suddenly soldiers arrive and without explanation shoot you if you are a male, take your children from you if you are a mother, and if you are a woman or a child place you in a concentration camp. This is what happened to the people who lived in Lidice, a town that was utterly destroyed by German Nazi’s during World War II. Lidice is located about 45 minutes away from Prague and today where the town once stood, there is a grand memorial dedicated to those whose homes and lives were taken away.

In 1941, after Czechoslovakia came under German rule, Reinhard Heydrich, one of the most dangerous Nazi party members, was appointed as the protectorate of Moravia and Bohemia. He came to Prague to strengthen the Nazi party and fight Czech resistence. On May 27, 1942, Heydrich was assassinated by Jan Kubiš and Jozef Gabčík, two Czech soldiers who had been specially trained in Britain. After Heydrich’s death on June 2, Hitler sought retaliation of the assassins. Intelligience linked the assassins to Lidice, and Heinrich Himmler, a leading member of the Nazi party, ordered for the town to be eradicated. Everything was burned to the ground and even the graveyard of the town was destroyed. 192 men were assassinated and the rest of the population was sent to concentration camps, where most of the women and children were killed. In all, 340 people from Lidice died.

Inside the museum of Lidice

After the end of the war, the women who had survived were housed in the new town of Lidice. There is now a museum at the memorial with artifacts and pictures that survived the destruction of the town. Long paths wind down green fields and lead to a sculpture, which honors the children who died at the concentration camp. There is also a crown of thorns on a cross, which honors the men who were murdered and next to the memorial there is a rose garden where there must have been a million roses that leads to the new town of Lidice. It’s different reading about history in a textbook and actually being at the spot where it happened. The history becomes more real and the numbers of murders turn into actual lives. Despite the horrific event that happened here, Lidice was beautiful. The green pastures and massive trees were complemented by blue sunny skies. It was bitter sweet to feel this natural beauty in a place were innocent people were murdered. I valued this experience learning about Lidice and in that way honoring those who died.

Memorial to the massacred men of Lidice

Facts of Life

Meditations on Tea

Alexia contemplating what tea to order

Amidst the chaotic Wenceslas Square, where people are constantly shoving to get from here to there and cars are always honking, there is an oasis of quietness and spiritual calm. This oasis is in the form of Dobrá čajovna, which translates into good tearoom. Dobrá čajovna is a tearoom chain which started in Prague and has franchises in all the major Czech Republic towns, in other parts of Eastern Europe, and even in the United States. The tea room in Wenceslas Square is the original one and has some interesting history to it. During the times of Communism, tea lovers would unite to sample different teas imported illegally and after the Velvet Revolution, they opened up this tearoom.

They offer a variety of teas from different parts of the world, and their menu is nearly a book. I love tea and drink it almost everyday so to have found a tearoom was like a dream come true. I really liked the atmosphere that was created by the tea’s calming effects and it’s Buddha garden décor, I even saw a few people meditating here. It was a cool place since there was a lot of shade and we sat on cushions on the floor and ordered a sweet tea and a cold tea. The cold tea tasted like a green tea milkshake and it took me a while to get accustomed to the taste, but the herb tea we ordered was delicious. They also serve snacks here to complement the teas such as hummus and baba ghanoush. It was a nice experience to cool down and meditate in the middle of a hot day.

Baba Ghanoush and our tea

Wish You Were Here

Revisiting Communism

Classmates Reading about the Stalin Statue Located in Letna Park

It is hard to believe that in 1989, the Czech Republic (when it was still Czechoslovakia) was still under communist rule. Yesterday, at the Communism Museum I had an intimate look at what these times were like, and how badly the communist regime functioned. I wrote about communism in the Czech Republic earlier but what I did not really think about until I came to the museum was how brave the Czechs were for fighting for their independence. On November 17, 1989 police suppressed a peaceful student protest, which sparked many other demonstrations until nearly December. Although the term Velvet Revolution is used to describe the events as non-violent and peaceful, from the videos that were shown in the museum this was not what I saw. Protestors were clubbed down by the police and badly beaten, and even women were assaulted. On November 27, nearly all Czechoslovaks participated in a two-hour strike and on the next day the Communist Party announced that it would relinquish all power.

This really made me think about how good overcomes evil, and that when people fight for their rights and come together, they succeed. It was interesting to see all the old artifacts such as statues of Stalin, propaganda posters, and to read about how at food shops, although people were given rations, people would still go back to trading goods and people who obtained more money would be able to sneak more items. It goes to show that even though communism looks good on paper, it has been proven not to function.

A replica of an interrogation room of the Communist Party

Weekend Miser

Flea Market

A little girl perusing the toys at the Flea Market

What better way to spend a lazy Sunday other than going to the local flea market? Yesterday me and some of my classmates went to one of Prague’s largest ones to see what deals we could get on unique items. Needless to say, everything here was dirt-cheap. There was an array of items sold here from antiques, to knives, to bottles of “Coffee Cola,” whatever that is. One item that stood out to me was a pin with a swastika on it. I don’t think you can get that kind of antique in the United States. This flea market is located right next to the metro (the subway) and is easy to get to.

I felt like I was transported to Trader’s Village, which is a flea market in Dallas, Texas when I got there. They both sell a lot of random stuff and feature unhealthy fried foods. Instead of a funnel cake, which I would usually get at Trader’s Village, Rachel, one of my classmates ordered a fried pancake-type thing, which tasted like eggs, sausage, and vegetables. We did not know what we were eating because everything here is in Czech since it is not a very touristy attraction. It can be very hard not knowing Czech sometimes because not being able to communicate with someone is very frustrating. I enjoyed coming here to see all the unique things they sold and go somewhere where only locals seem to go.

Artwork on Display at the Flea Market

Morning Glory

Trekking the King's Parade

The King's Parade 2011

Arriving at the Prague Castle after journeying on two trams early Saturday morning, people in medieval costumes started to appear under the bright blue sky next to St. Vitus Cathedral. It was the beginning of the King’s Parade, which commemorates King Charles IV and begins at the Prague Castle and ends at Karlštejn Castle, making it a total of eighteen miles. Luckily we only stayed at the parade for a few hours and it was enough time to enjoy the royal costumes and watch the jester do various silly things.

The history of the parade dates back to the Holy Roman Empire when the emperor would take the coronation jewels from Karlštejn Castle to put them on display at St. Vitus Cathedral after Easter. This parade celebrates the return of the crown to Karlštejn. There are many other activities that take place after the parade such as knight fights, concerts, and theater. People can participate with or without costumes. I think it would be fun to dress up as a medieval character just to feel like I am in olden times because it’s always fun to pretend. I really liked how the people who wore the costumes really played their roles well, such as the guards yelling and the royal way the King carried on. It almost felt like I was transferred to medieval times, if it wasn’t for the cars and the crowds of people.

http://www.kralovskypruvod.eu/?go=program&la=en#h2

Small Wonder

Off the Beaten Path

Bullet-holes and the Flood-line

Out of destruction sometimes good can be created, and this is evidenced by a small neighborhood in Prague. During a walking tour around the outskirts of Prague, we came across a neighborhood that in 2002 was devastated by floods, but built itself up to become a beautiful place to live in. Our tour guide, David, who is a Prague native, told us that the buildings before the flood were neglected and shabby, but after the floods, the community brought itself together and rebuilt. Parks were created and facades of decrepit buildings were renovated to make them look like new. This area is very peaceful and according to our tour guide is an affluent part of town. It used to be a small town but was later added to Prague. I was surprised to know that until the 20^th century Prague was not a city, but five small towns comprised of what is today one whole city.

During our tour we also came across a neighborhood of apartments, or flats as they say here, that were built during the time of communism. They were built in a functionalist style, meaning that they are built to suit function over form. All of these buildings looked alike and are very characteristic of communist style all over Eastern Europe. As our tour guide said they were like “cages for rabbits.” Today the area is unsightly and houses people in the lower and lower-middle class. It would not be an ideal place to live in my opinion, but at the end of the day all that matters is how people make their house a home. The people here seemed happy, kids played on the street, and owners gleefully walked their dogs or took a stroll around the block. I think that’s the main difference between here and the United States, people seem to value their time more and enjoy the little things. I think that that’s very important for me to remember when I go back home.

Noticed

Street Art

It seems like every corner I turn on I see graffiti written on the walls. Sure, I see some of it in the United States, but in Prague, street art never seems to be washed away. Most of it is pretty horrible, as if children scribbled on the walls with spray paint, but every now and then I see something that really catches my eye. Recently, street art has become very popular with movies such as “Exit Through the Gift Shop” which is a documentary about street art and the famous Banksy. It seems as if street art is really becoming an acceptable form of art.

I for one like street art because it brings some color to the street. Seeing buildings that all look the same sometimes gets repetitive, but having a character or a statement written on it and making it look good adds some character to the neighborhood. There are many famous Czech street artists such as Pasta, Cryptic 257, Tron, and Skarf. These artists are professionally trained and have been featured in exhibits. They don’t just see their work as graffiti as Skarf explains, “street art is a less assaultable. Street artists often touch on social themes and that’s not like graffiti. The establishment cannot tell the street artist that he is ruining the street.”

Wish You Were Here

Visiting Terezin

Felix, our guide and a Holocaust survivor shows us around Terezin

Jewish Cemetery, putting rocks on a grave is a Jewish tradition

The cold dreary morning seemed to foretell how I was going to feel during our class trip to Terezin. Terezin is a town, but more importantly a former concentration camp and a Jewish ghetto, located about an hour away from Prague. The town had two fortresses that were constructed in the late 18th century and were designed to be a military fort, but this plan was never realized. Instead it was used to hold political prisoners. In the 1940s, Hitler’s regime used the smaller fortress of the two to house prisoners, and the larger fortress as a large Jewish ghetto. The ghetto housed nearly 150,000 Jewish people who lived in dire crammed conditions and was used as a transport to Auschwitz, where many met their fate of death. 35,000 people died in this town due to unsanitary conditions and starvation, and there were only about 18,000 survivors.

Our tour guide, Dr. Felix Kolmer was one of those survivors. Dr. Kolmer is a remarkable person as he survived both Terezin and Auschwitz, and today he is a professor in physics at Charles University. He led us through the prison and told us the horrific acts and would describe the dire conditions. Although he had endured all of this, Dr. Kolmer spoke to us in an unemotional descriptive way. It was amazing to me that after going through so much he could be able to tell his story and share it with us. During the tour I was so touched that is impossible to even describe it in words. All the inhumanity and suffering suddenly became very real to me.

The thing that struck me about the Jewish people who were living in Terezin was their ability to be creative through the harsh conditions. We visited a museum that displayed their artwork that vividly described how they felt. You could see the despair and feelings of futility and darkness through their drawings and poems. This artwork of course had to be hidden and was found after the end of the war, as Nazi propaganda portrayed Terezin as an ideal Jewish settlement. Today, Terezin is nearly a ghost town, and I don't blame anyone for not wanting to live here, as it's history makes it a very sad place. This day was very heavy for me and emotionally draining, but it is important to remember the pain that the Holocaust caused and the countless lives it destroyed.

Angels in the Architecture (Literally)

Prague's Rich History Told Through Buildings

One of the Angel Statues at Loretta

One of the pleasures of getting to live in Prague for a month is being able to see beautiful buildings that are centuries old. In Texas, the oldest building I probably have seen is from the 18^th century, while in Prague some of the oldest buildings date back to the 9^th century. Some of my favorite buildings here have to be the churches. There is just something about them that make them so majestic and wonderful to look at. One of my favorite churches is the St. Vitus Cathedral. It is a gothic style and is the spiritual symbol of Czech state. The church was founded in the 9^th century, and its final construction ended in the 19^th century, making it about a thousand-year process. The cathedral is beautiful, and is especially made so by its flying buttresses and because of its intricate details. During an architectural walking tour, we came across this small church that is in the picture called Loretta. The details, such as the gold trimming against the cream colored building and the statues made it much more beautiful compared to the monstrous palace that was in front of it. In Old Town Square one of the main attractions besides the astronomical clock is the Tyn Church. This church is in Gothic style and its two tall towers have four spires, which make this church really beautiful and unique. Prague has so much to offer architecturally, and one thing that is truly remarkable are it’s churches.